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“SKIN ALLERGY – TRADE SECRETS”I have been in the professional skincare industry for 11 years. I find inspiration in listening to other educators and experts in the field. I am always reading anything regarding skincare and health challenges. I do not limit myself to industry knowledge and I incorporate the consumer avenue to see what they are talking about. I learned the most when working at the FDA laboratory. Working with clients to help formulate product lines and the knowledge of ingredients has really helped me in my current position. Ingredients are always changing in regard to new discoveries on ways to improve skin, as well as new methods of ingredient delivery. With the wellness trend still thriving, I see a need for more customized services and products to treat individuals that have skin or fragrance sensitivities due to a variety of internal/external sources. Ingredients are an important aspect of every consideration in this industry. Even with intake forms, clients should be aware of the ingredients they are using and the aesthetician should be aware of any contraindications the client may have. Many ingredients are contraindicated due to medications, menstrual cycles, allergies, current home care regimens, and even previous surgeries where lymph nodes were removed. The best spas have a great intake form as to really understand a client’s concerns and possible issues that could cause reactions in the treatment room. The spa staff should also be knowledgeable in the right treatments and home care for their clients. The spa management team should be willing to listen to the needs and concerns of their staff and clients and be able to adapt to upcoming trends in the industry as it is always changing. I tell every client to listen to what their bodies and skin are telling them. I also advise them to let their skincare professional know of allergies, medications, and past surgeries so the best treatment plan can be developed to treat their skin concerns with no adverse reactions.

Alpine Salon Skin Treatments

by Kris Campbell, Founder/Managing Director, Hale & Hush, and Eclectic Solutions
As seen in Dermascope Magazine – April 2015




“INSIDE SURFACTANTS | Hale and Hush ” –  Surfactant Cleanser Examples Mackadet DA (INCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (and) Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine) is a product of Solvay. EcoSense 1200 (INCI: Lauryl Glucoside) is a product of Dow Chemical Company. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) TEA Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) The term surfactant is a shortened form of the phrase surface active ingredient. A surfactant is categorized as a compound that will lower the surface tension between two other factors. This could be lowering the interfacial tension between a liquid and a solid, a liquid and a gas, or even a liquid and another liquid. An example of this would be mixing oil and water in a skincare product. As we know, oil and water do not dissolve when combined, so a surfactant will then be added to a formulation to keep it from separating into layers of ingredients. Most people think this only pertains to ingredients that foam or cleanse. However, surfactants can also be in the following beauty products: emulsifiers in creams and lotions, conditioning agents in skin and hair care products, and solubilizers for perfumes and flavors. Learning the various types of surfactants and some common names helps us understand why these ingredients are used in a formula, but also why maybe a particular product is or is not working for your client and their skincare concerns. Cleansing and Foaming Surfactants as cleansing agents found in soaps and shampoos will draw the oil and dirt to the surfactant. As the surfactant is rinsed away from hair or skin, the surfactant is removed from the surface with oil/ dirt trapped inside. Consumers tend to believe that if a product foams a lot, then it cleans the skin better; however, it is more of an aesthetic property than having the ability to clean the skin more effectively. There are also several products in the marketplace, such as cleansers and shampoos, that are already in a foaming form. The surfactant in the foaming agent of these types of products allows it to remain as foam as opposed to collapsing back into liquid form. Just remember, that even though it is in a foaming state, that does not mean it has any cleansing ability. An example of this would be topical medications or steroids that do not foam but offer a different type of application versus internal or a cream/ointment. After cleansing the skin, most of the surfactant gets rinsed off, but sometimes not all of it. There are some surfactants that can bind to proteins of the skin, which in turn, can cause them to swell and/or change 50 September 2021 © Skin Inc. shape. This will then cause the skin to become irritated. Lately in skincare, many try to use a mixture of surfactants rather than just one aggressive, potentially Spotlight: Sulfates One subject that is a popular topic in the personal care market is “sulfate or non- sulfate” surfactants. Sulfate-free surfactants cost more than lauryl/laureth sulfates. The cost can be the production of actual ingredients involved or the binding process of these sulfate-free surfactants. Sulfate-free products tend to lather; however, maybe not at the intense aesthetic experience of overflowing bubble-like sulfated products. As mentioned above, more foam does not equate to better cleansing. This is something that the skincare professional should explain to clients when choosing these cleansers. Some think they need to use more products, but this is not necessary, as the thickening of non-sulfate surfactants tends to make the formula more concentrated. In other words, “less is more.” September 2021 © Skin Inc. 51 irritating one to the skin barrier and its function. Many ingredient suppliers are working to strategically mix surfactants from large micelles, which in turn, reduces irritation and inflammation. When a micelle in a formula is too small, it will aggravate the skin. Emulsifiers Surfactants as emulsifiers are used in skincare in a variety of creams and lotions. Most people would prefer that their skincare products have a uniform texture instead of all oil or layers of water and oil bases. Mixes of oil and water, emulsions are typically semi-stable so the oil and water do not separate. This makes for good spreadability of products and better absorption in the skin. Consumers sometimes say that they apply moisturizer, and their skin feels dry shortly after the application. Sometimes this is due to the types of emulsifiers in the products. The product will initially go on in a smooth manner and skin will feel hydrated, but sometimes the emulsifier used will create only the illusion of hydration temporarily. Some dimethicones and silicones are cosmetically elegant; however, the barrier created makes it difficult for the skin to “breathe” and actives to penetrate. Ultra-sensitive clients should look for emulsifying-free options or low use of dimethicone-like emulsifiers, as they can be more irritating to that particular skin type. When looking for options more emulsifier-free, look for physiological lipids that may mimic the lipid component of skin like essential fatty acids (EFAs), phospholipids, and certain ceramides. Conditioning Agents Skincare and hair care products also use surfactants as conditioners. Conditioning surfactants can include “leave-on” skin and hair conditioners. If used in a hair conditioner, for example, the surfactants give hair a smooth touch or feel as it leaves. After using a hair conditioner, the product remains on the hair, giving it a smooth feel due to the lipophilic (oily) portion of the molecule. A large number of surfactants used as conditioning agents are categorized as cationic surfactants. Cationic Emulsifi er Examples Glyceryl stearate PEG-100 stearate Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Laureth-23 Steareth Alcohol Cetyl/PEG/PPG 10 Dimethicone Phosphatidylcholine Phytosterols Stearic Acid Surfactants are not just found in foaming products. 52 September 2021 © Skin Inc. surfactants are quaternary ammonium species or “quats,” which hold a permanent cationic charge independent of solution pH. Environmental toxicity has become an increasing concern with quaternary ammonium surfactants because they demonstrate strong potential for aquatic toxicity and environmental persistence. Additionally, quats are not possible to manufacture as 100% plant-derived compositions because the quaternary ammonium head groups require some petrochemical-derived carbon content.1 Since quats have become controversial in recent years, ingredient manufacturers are looking for “greener” versions to be made available as an option. Solubilizers Surfactants are used as solubilizers to solubilize (make a substance dissolvable or emulsifiable) small amounts of oil or oil-soluble ingredients (essential or INSIDE SURFACTANTS fragrance oils) into mostly watery concoctions (toners or hand washes), and to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products (cleansing oil or bath bomb). A good example would be vitamin E (tocopherol), as it is generally oilier in nature. To put this ingredient in a toner or water-based product, you would need a surfactant used as a solubilizer to incorporate into the formula, so the two ingredients do not separate. As mentioned above, surfactants can be used to allow for essential oils to be included in products like washes, toners, and mists. When using surfactants for this purpose, we need to consider sensitive skin. More and more clients are classifying themselves with sensitive skin for a variety of reasons. When trying to determine where their sensitivity is coming from, one should consider the type of fragrance being used in the product that is causing irritation. If a product is using essential oil to provide the fragrance, that could be the issue or possibly it could be the surfactant being used to infuse the oil aesthetically into the product. At times, some detective work may be needed on the professionals’ part as well as recommending a dermatologist/allergist. Conditioning Agent Examples Behentrimonium Chloride (quat) Distearyldimonium Chloride (quat) Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate Solubilizer Examples Hydrogenated Castor Oil Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 Water Soluble Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide Surfactants are used to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products. September 2021 © Skin Inc. 53 Kris Campbell is a licensed esthetician who has been actively involved in the professional skincare industry since 2004. She created Hale & Hush, the only professional skincare line to focus exclusively on sensitive skin. Campbell is respected as a prominent writer, speaker, and educator in the skincare industry. Are Surfactants Good or Bad? I spoke with John Stanek, director of marketing and product development for CoValence Laboratories about good and bad surfactants. I have learned a lot about not categorizing good or bad, as each individual and each company should look at surfactants ingredients and uses to determine their own view. “Regarding the morality of surfactants, we do not categorize raw materials as good or bad because neither term is codified,” says Stanek. “Further, applying adjectives like good/bad to raw materials presents a risk because the concept is based on the perspective of individual brands, retail channels or consumers (versus an evidence-based approach).” In professional skincare and in over-the-counter skincare for that matter, surfactants are everywhere in our products. Learning more about the sources of those surfactants and understanding the reason they are in the product will be important to some but not others. If you have a clientele that is sensitive to these ingredients or find this information important, start questioning your brand manufacturer as to what, where, and why they use certain ingredients. Besides asking the manufacturer, you should also do a little research to look at the makeup of ingredients and the potential positives and negatives of each. Be sure to create a good intake form that asks questions of your client as to whether they have any ingredient allergies or have been known to get irritated when using certain types of skincare or cleaning solutions. Only with this education will you be able to determine which brands to use for your clients, as well as giving yourself peace of mind



By: Kris Campbell


The Black Leggings Of Skincare

I was like – nah, the little black dress is done.  

I think it’s more like black leggings!  

Jenni chimed in, “I hate wearing jeans and can’t wait to put leggings on…they are my failproof…they work with anything…fat day, skinny day, dressy, casual…”

What’s the point you ask?

Black leggings are versatile, they are easy to use, they go with everything and everyone loves them.  Just like Hale & Hush Skincare. I mean, honestly, there are only a few lines out there that I know that have the legit cult following that Hale & Hush enjoys.

Hale & Hush’s popularity lies in its ability to help the most sensitive and reactive skin types.

“…Campbell identified a pressing need for high-quality skincare products for extremely sensitive and health-challenged skin®. She became an expert in the subject….In 2015 Campbell founded Hale & Hush, the only professional skincare line to focus exclusively on sensitive skin. For occasionally to seriously sensitive skin, Hale & Hush has sensitive skin covered.”  

About Us on

Over the past year, as I’ve gotten to know Hale & Hush, either through online observation or through conversations with skincare pros at industry events, the feedback that I’ve gotten is that LITERALLY, EVERYONE loves Hale & Hush!  I was so excited when I got to try the products so we could do the review of Hale and Hush skincare for this article.

A Closer Look At Ingredients For Our Review Of Hale and Hush

We examined the entire product line for our review of Hale & Hush skincare.  The products are so neutral that they can be used on clients who are sensitive.  Which is amazing. But the feedback that we’ve observed is that they are also incredibly therapeutic for any skin type after aggressive exfoliation.

The key to why they work so well isn’t due to what is in them, rather it’s what’s NOT in them!


The products are:

  • Sulfate Free100%100%
  • Gluten Free100%100%
  • Paraben Free100%100%
  • Artificial Fragrance-Free – Limited Scent100%100%

 Our Review Of Hale & Hush Showed Us Estheticians Love It!

In our review of Hale & Hush skincare, what we’ve learned from the estheticians that we’ve talked to is that they use Hale & Hush in conjunction with many other skincare brands and skincare devices.  The brand’s ability to help the most vulnerable skin, allows it to easily assimilate into almost any treatment. It’s also an ideal post exfoliation soother.

Here’s some of the feedback that we received.  You can easily see that it works beautifully with:

Skin Script


Osmosis Skincare

Lira Clinical

Elaine Sterling Skincare

Eminence Organic


Le Mieux

“I use it with Skin Script, they compliment each other perfectly, especially for calming after a “spicy” treatment! I also use it for my own rosacea and sensitive skin, H&H has helped reduce my inflammation and soothed my flare ups, I love that is gluten free, paraben free and fragrance free!” Lori Cadett Comen from LC Artistry  

“I’ve started using it with Face Reality products. In particular the Bio relief powder, which they can mix with their moisturizers or SPF to reduce redness from acne.”  Jessica White Slorah

“I use H&H SPF with Elaine Sterling Skincare and Skin Script. My clients love it! It not only protects their skin from UV but it calms and doesn’t irritate their fresh faces. Living in St Petersburg, FL (aka Sunshine City) we need all the protection we can get.” Tif Blue from Beauty By Blue Esthetics!

“We use it alongside Eminence. I love Hale & Hush because it’s versatile there’s so many ways you can use it. We developed our signature brow service around it and incorporate it into our aftercare post waxing.”  Shelly Singleton from The Perfect Peach Body Waxing Studio

“I use Skin Script, PCA along with Hale & Hush. I will use the hydrate gel mask after an enzyme peel or chemical peel. The hydrate mask will take the redness(inflammation) down. I have rosacea clients that I’ll do the PCA sensi peel then the rest of treatment H&H products. Love how they compliment other product lines!”  Monica Pittman Chandler from EPI Skin Spa, Snellville, GA

“…I have successfully used it on virtually every client, with every product line I’ve used, from DermaMed Solutions, to Le Mieux, Skin Script, FHF, and soon, with my very own skincare collection. It’s not just for my sensitive skin and oncology patients, but for every skin condition I have encountered in my 9 years of business as esthetician.” Liliana Aranda LE Cmld from Faces by Liliana, Oakland, CA

“I only currently use Hale and Hush in back bar. The hush hydrate mask and bio relief powder take all redness down. It works well with Skin Script rx and Osmosis. No other product like this is on the market.”  Amy Walsh, Lead Esthetician at Earthbody day spa, San Francisco, CA


Hale & Hush is a small line, with only 14 products.  You can also easily combine it with other products in any facial protocol. The line can be used on its own to perform Microdermabrasion and Microneedling.  It works well with highly advanced treatments such as the ThermoClear machine.

Olga, CEO of Thermoclear

ThermoClear treats skin  imperfections and can be used even on clients with sensitive or mature skin. I know that Hale and Hush focuses on sensitive skin so it’s great to use with our device.”

Want to learn more about Hale & Hush and how you can incorporate it into your back bar and retail area?

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