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“INSIDE SURFACTANTS | Hale and Hush ” – Surfactant Cleanser Examples Mackadet DA (INCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (and) Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine) is a product of Solvay. EcoSense 1200 (INCI: Lauryl Glucoside) is a product of Dow Chemical Company. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) TEA Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) The term surfactant is a shortened form of the phrase surface active ingredient. A surfactant is categorized as a compound that will lower the surface tension between two other factors. This could be lowering the interfacial tension between a liquid and a solid, a liquid and a gas, or even a liquid and another liquid. An example of this would be mixing oil and water in a skincare product. As we know, oil and water do not dissolve when combined, so a surfactant will then be added to a formulation to keep it from separating into layers of ingredients. Most people think this only pertains to ingredients that foam or cleanse. However, surfactants can also be in the following beauty products: emulsifiers in creams and lotions, conditioning agents in skin and hair care products, and solubilizers for perfumes and flavors. Learning the various types of surfactants and some common names helps us understand why these ingredients are used in a formula, but also why maybe a particular product is or is not working for your client and their skincare concerns. Cleansing and Foaming Surfactants as cleansing agents found in soaps and shampoos will draw the oil and dirt to the surfactant. As the surfactant is rinsed away from hair or skin, the surfactant is removed from the surface with oil/ dirt trapped inside. Consumers tend to believe that if a product foams a lot, then it cleans the skin better; however, it is more of an aesthetic property than having the ability to clean the skin more effectively. There are also several products in the marketplace, such as cleansers and shampoos, that are already in a foaming form. The surfactant in the foaming agent of these types of products allows it to remain as foam as opposed to collapsing back into liquid form. Just remember, that even though it is in a foaming state, that does not mean it has any cleansing ability. An example of this would be topical medications or steroids that do not foam but offer a different type of application versus internal or a cream/ointment. After cleansing the skin, most of the surfactant gets rinsed off, but sometimes not all of it. There are some surfactants that can bind to proteins of the skin, which in turn, can cause them to swell and/or change 50 September 2021 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com shape. This will then cause the skin to become irritated. Lately in skincare, many try to use a mixture of surfactants rather than just one aggressive, potentially Spotlight: Sulfates One subject that is a popular topic in the personal care market is “sulfate or non- sulfate” surfactants. Sulfate-free surfactants cost more than lauryl/laureth sulfates. The cost can be the production of actual ingredients involved or the binding process of these sulfate-free surfactants. Sulfate-free products tend to lather; however, maybe not at the intense aesthetic experience of overflowing bubble-like sulfated products. As mentioned above, more foam does not equate to better cleansing. This is something that the skincare professional should explain to clients when choosing these cleansers. Some think they need to use more products, but this is not necessary, as the thickening of non-sulfate surfactants tends to make the formula more concentrated. In other words, “less is more.” www.SkinInc.com September 2021 © Skin Inc. 51 irritating one to the skin barrier and its function. Many ingredient suppliers are working to strategically mix surfactants from large micelles, which in turn, reduces irritation and inflammation. When a micelle in a formula is too small, it will aggravate the skin. Emulsifiers Surfactants as emulsifiers are used in skincare in a variety of creams and lotions. Most people would prefer that their skincare products have a uniform texture instead of all oil or layers of water and oil bases. Mixes of oil and water, emulsions are typically semi-stable so the oil and water do not separate. This makes for good spreadability of products and better absorption in the skin. Consumers sometimes say that they apply moisturizer, and their skin feels dry shortly after the application. Sometimes this is due to the types of emulsifiers in the products. The product will initially go on in a smooth manner and skin will feel hydrated, but sometimes the emulsifier used will create only the illusion of hydration temporarily. Some dimethicones and silicones are cosmetically elegant; however, the barrier created makes it difficult for the skin to “breathe” and actives to penetrate. Ultra-sensitive clients should look for emulsifying-free options or low use of dimethicone-like emulsifiers, as they can be more irritating to that particular skin type. When looking for options more emulsifier-free, look for physiological lipids that may mimic the lipid component of skin like essential fatty acids (EFAs), phospholipids, and certain ceramides. Conditioning Agents Skincare and hair care products also use surfactants as conditioners. Conditioning surfactants can include “leave-on” skin and hair conditioners. If used in a hair conditioner, for example, the surfactants give hair a smooth touch or feel as it leaves. After using a hair conditioner, the product remains on the hair, giving it a smooth feel due to the lipophilic (oily) portion of the molecule. A large number of surfactants used as conditioning agents are categorized as cationic surfactants. Cationic Emulsifi er Examples Glyceryl stearate PEG-100 stearate Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Laureth-23 Steareth Alcohol Cetyl/PEG/PPG 10 Dimethicone Phosphatidylcholine Phytosterols Stearic Acid Surfactants are not just found in foaming products. 52 September 2021 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com surfactants are quaternary ammonium species or “quats,” which hold a permanent cationic charge independent of solution pH. Environmental toxicity has become an increasing concern with quaternary ammonium surfactants because they demonstrate strong potential for aquatic toxicity and environmental persistence. Additionally, quats are not possible to manufacture as 100% plant-derived compositions because the quaternary ammonium head groups require some petrochemical-derived carbon content.1 Since quats have become controversial in recent years, ingredient manufacturers are looking for “greener” versions to be made available as an option. Solubilizers Surfactants are used as solubilizers to solubilize (make a substance dissolvable or emulsifiable) small amounts of oil or oil-soluble ingredients (essential or INSIDE SURFACTANTS fragrance oils) into mostly watery concoctions (toners or hand washes), and to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products (cleansing oil or bath bomb). A good example would be vitamin E (tocopherol), as it is generally oilier in nature. To put this ingredient in a toner or water-based product, you would need a surfactant used as a solubilizer to incorporate into the formula, so the two ingredients do not separate. As mentioned above, surfactants can be used to allow for essential oils to be included in products like washes, toners, and mists. When using surfactants for this purpose, we need to consider sensitive skin. More and more clients are classifying themselves with sensitive skin for a variety of reasons. When trying to determine where their sensitivity is coming from, one should consider the type of fragrance being used in the product that is causing irritation. If a product is using essential oil to provide the fragrance, that could be the issue or possibly it could be the surfactant being used to infuse the oil aesthetically into the product. At times, some detective work may be needed on the professionals’ part as well as recommending a dermatologist/allergist. Conditioning Agent Examples Behentrimonium Chloride (quat) Distearyldimonium Chloride (quat) Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate Solubilizer Examples Hydrogenated Castor Oil Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 Water Soluble Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide Surfactants are used to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products. www.SkinInc.com September 2021 © Skin Inc. 53 Kris Campbell is a licensed esthetician who has been actively involved in the professional skincare industry since 2004. She created Hale & Hush, the only professional skincare line to focus exclusively on sensitive skin. Campbell is respected as a prominent writer, speaker, and educator in the skincare industry. Are Surfactants Good or Bad? I spoke with John Stanek, director of marketing and product development for CoValence Laboratories about good and bad surfactants. I have learned a lot about not categorizing good or bad, as each individual and each company should look at surfactants ingredients and uses to determine their own view. “Regarding the morality of surfactants, we do not categorize raw materials as good or bad because neither term is codified,” says Stanek. “Further, applying adjectives like good/bad to raw materials presents a risk because the concept is based on the perspective of individual brands, retail channels or consumers (versus an evidence-based approach).” In professional skincare and in over-the-counter skincare for that matter, surfactants are everywhere in our products. Learning more about the sources of those surfactants and understanding the reason they are in the product will be important to some but not others. If you have a clientele that is sensitive to these ingredients or find this information important, start questioning your brand manufacturer as to what, where, and why they use certain ingredients. Besides asking the manufacturer, you should also do a little research to look at the makeup of ingredients and the potential positives and negatives of each. Be sure to create a good intake form that asks questions of your client as to whether they have any ingredient allergies or have been known to get irritated when using certain types of skincare or cleaning solutions. Only with this education will you be able to determine which brands to use for your clients, as well as giving yourself peace of mind
By: Kris Campbell
“KEEP YOUR HAIR HYDRATED” – Whether you are battling the dry winter air or dry summer heat, your hair may need some serious moisturization. You could also need some help due to excessive heat styling or even overwashing. We get it; life has gotten a hold of your hair and dried it out into a crispy mess—it happens to all of us. Unfortunately, most of the things we do in life can damage our hair and dry it out until it is completely unmanageable, but that doesn’t mean all hope is lost.
Luckily, there are tons of great ways to introduce moisture into your hair. All your hair needs is a little bit of TLC. In no time, you can transform your hair from dull and dry to quenched and shiny. It’s not as simple as piling on the conditioner until you see results. In fact, there is a proper way to moisturize each hair type.
Kenra Professional will cover everything you need to know about moisturizing for your hair type, as well as product recommendations and preventative steps you can take to keep that moisture locked in from the get-go.
Is your hair unusually frizzy and dull? This could be because your hair is struggling to retain moisture. Your hair can become dry for a number of different reasons, such as the environment, bleaching, products, swimming, weather, or even age. As we get older, our bodies produce fewer natural oils all over, causing dry skin and dry hair.
However, dry hair can be caused by so many different factors that it is best to simply recognize the dryness and then try and treat it. If you are determined to find the cause, by all means, press on in your search, but simply understanding that your hair is dry is enough to get on your way to improving it.
One thing to know about hair dryness is that your hair is made up of several layers. When your hair becomes dry, the outermost layer, or cuticle, breaks down, causing your hair to look dull and dry. Over time, dryness can lead to more extensive hair damage, so it is essential that you address the need for moisture as soon as you notice the dryness.
Now that you have identified the issue, it is time to try and address and improve your hair’s condition. The best way to do this is by hair type; after all, our hair needs are uniquely our own.
If you have especially fine hair, you will want to avoid over-moisturizing because you can end up weighing it down. On the other hand, if you have voluptuous curls or have hair that has been bleached a lot, then you will need to take a more heavy-handed approach.
When super fine and straight hair becomes dry, it tends to become extremely tangly and hard to manage. But don’t worry; we’ve got your back with several foolproof hydrating tricks.
Are you currently only using a clarifying shampoo or a shampoo without a conditioner? If so, then you’ve probably found the source of your dryness.
While clarifying shampoos can be great for removing product buildup, they are not suitable for everyday use. With too much use, these deep cleansers can strip your scalp’s natural oils and leave your hair in need of some deep, intense moisturization.
To give your fine, straight hair the moisturization it needs without weighing it down, we recommend using the Kenra Platinum Signature Style Prime Shampoo. This shampoo is formulated without added sulfates, parabens, or sodium chloride so that you can get the clean you want without any of the drying effects. In addition, this formula is infused with Velvet Flower, which is perfect for locking in moisture and improving manageability without over-moisturizing.
To keep your hair washing routine consistent, we recommend using the Kenra Platinum Signature Style Prime Conditioner as well. This conditioner is formulated with Purple Orchid to help your hair lock in moisture and smooth out your strands while preparing your hair for styling.
With this light moisturizing formula, you will get the moisture you need without all the heaviness. If you want to keep things extra light, you can even apply your conditioner by focusing on the ends and strands and skipping the scalp. This could also help to give your hair an extra lift.
If you have fine hair and use any heat styling tools, then Kenra Platinum Blow Dry Mist will be your new best friend in battling dryness due to heat styling. Whenever you expose your hair to heat, you can potentially damage your hair. You may not even realize the damage at first, but you may begin to notice excessive dryness and breakage over time. That’s where heat protection spray comes in. Simply spray a bit of thermal protectant spray all over your hair before you hit it with the heat. This will keep your hair from becoming dry in the first place.
If your hair is super curly or has been bleached for some time, then you need all the moisture you can get. With intensive moisturization, we are not as concerned with weighing the hair down. Your hair will benefit from really packing the moisture in.
If you have curly or bleached hair, then you need to take a hands-on approach to moisturization. You should try to wash your hair as infrequently as possible. When you do wash your hair, we recommend our salon-quality Moisturizing Shampoo.
This shampoo works great on all hair types but is especially effective in hydrating curly or bleached hair. Its advanced pH balancing system will help your scalp to lock in and hold onto moisture. With this shampoo, you will get the clean feeling you are looking for while still hydrating your hair for soft and shiny results.
Complete your hair washing duo with our premium Moisturizing Conditioner. It will help keep your hair care routine consistent and hydrating. However, if you feel like you may benefit from a deeper moisturization, then you should also incorporate our Nourishing Masque.
This masque is an intensive treatment that will penetrate deep into your hair follicles to repair dry, damaged hair. It even works to reconstruct the damaged follicles leaving you with soft, smooth, manageable hair.
You can use the Nourishing Masque as your daily conditioner by simply using it in place of your conditioner, or you can use it as an intense conditioning treatment. To use it as an intensive treatment, shampoo your hair and rinse, then apply the Nourishing Masque all over and leave it for five to 10 minutes.
Next, use a wide-tooth comb to evenly distribute the product through your hair, and then apply heat with your blow dryer. Finally, rinse out the treatment for hair that is truly quenched.
For a burst of moisture mid-day, we suggest you keep a bottle of Dry Oil Control Spray 14 on hand. This dry oil spray will give your hair the touch of moisture it needs with a light to medium hold to tame frizz and flyaways. It is humidity-resistant for 24 hours so that you can party on while keeping your hair shiny and hydrated.
One of the best ways you can deal with dryness is by preventing it from happening in the first place; but alas, there is no way to completely eliminate all drying elements. However, there are still several preventative measures that are totally within your power to control.
For all hair types, it is best to minimize the frequency of shampoo use. This is easy to do with the help of our Dry Shampoo. Simply spray some dry shampoo at your roots section by section and then use your fingers to work it through your hair. This effortless beauty hack will allow you to freshen up without a full shampoo and condition.
When you do shampoo (and condition), you may want to keep those tresses quenched with a leave-in conditioner to support you throughout the day. Kenra Daily Provision Spray is a lightweight leave-in for all hair types that nourishes, resists humidity, and also provides thermal protection, so why wouldn’t you want this hair hero in your arsenal? Simply spray into damp hair and blow-dry in, and feel free to mist on your hair as needed for a moisturizing refresh.
Another way to prevent dryness is by using heat tools sparingly. Heat causes dryness, so whenever you can, let your hair air dry.
Hair dryness happens to all of us, and it’s no surprise considering how easy it is to dry out your hair. All you need to do to take your hair from dull and dry to shiny and hydrated is reconsider your shampoo and conditioner routine while being mindful of your styling choices, products, and frequency of use. Once you switch over to an appropriate shampoo and conditioner for your hair type, you will be well on your way to gorgeous, hydrated hair.
Take preventative measures to protect your hair, like minimizing the frequency of your wash cycle and avoiding heat tools whenever possible. You will surely see hydrating results in no time. When your hair care routine changes, your hair changes. With the right products, you can be in control of your hair once and for all. Gorgeous moisturized hair is right around the corner.
Massage Breckenridge | We are hiring!
Colorado licensed massage therapist at our Breckenridge locations. We are looking to hire massage therapists for all of our Breckenridge locations. We can offer full-time, part-time, and chair massage.
We are booked solid and need to expand our team to accommodate the demand. For the right candidate we are offering: